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The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction. Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g., swell from di...
Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy
Directional Spectrum Ocean Waves Cloverleaf Buoy
2009/3/24
Analysis of the directional spectra of typical sets of surface wave data obtained in the open sea as well as a bay using a cloverleaf buoy system are reported.
It is shown that the directional wave...
A New Method for Measuring the Directional Wave Spectrum. Part II. Measurement of the Directional Spectrum and Phase Velocity of Laboratory Wind Waves
Directional Wave Spectrum Phase Velocity Directional Spectrum Laboratory Wind Waves
2009/2/23
A new method for measuring the directional spectrum, introduced in the preceding paper (Rikiishi, 1978), has been applied to actual wind waves in a large experimental tank 70 m × 8 m with the water 3 ...
The Statistical Evaluation of Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived from Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
2009/2/16
Estimates of the ocean wave directional spectrum may be extracted from observations of surface vertical acceleration and slope made with a pitch/roll buoy. The analysis requires the specification of a...
A Data-Adaptive Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator for Pitch and Roll Type Measurements
Ocean Wave Directional-Spectrum Estimator Type Measurements
2009/1/21
A data-adaptive directional-spectrum estimator is developed for “point” measurement systems such as the pitch and roll buoy and slope array. This estimator, unlike the much employed unimodal cosine po...
Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves
Directional Spectrum Fetch-Limited Waves
2008/10/31
Estimates of the wave directional spectrum of fetch-limited sea states are made from measurements made with a heave–pitch–roll buoy at the Maui location off the west coast of New Zealand. The fe...